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The main town and port of ERMOUPOLI was founded during the War of Independence by refugees from Psara and Hios, becoming Greece's chief port in the nineteenth century. Although Pireas outstripped it long ago, Ermoupoli is still the largest town in the Cyclades, and the archipelago's capital. Medieval Syros was largely a Catholic island, but an influx of Orthodox refugees during the War of Independence created two distinct communities; now almost equal in numbers, the two groups today still live in their respective quarters, occupying two hills that rise up from the sea. Ermoupoli itself, the lower town , is worth at least a night's stay, with grandiose buildings a relic of its days as a major port. The long, central Platia Miaouli is named after an admiral of the revolution whose statue stands there, and in the evenings the population parades in front of its arcades, while the children ride the mechanical animals. Up the stairs to the left of the town hall is the small Archeological Museum (Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm; free), with three rooms of finds from Syros, Paros and Amorgos. To the left of the clocktower more stairs climb up to Vrondadho , the hill that hosts the Orthodox quarter. The wonderful church of the Anastassi stands atop the hill, with its domed roof and great views over Tinos and Mykonos - if it's locked, ask for the key at the priest's house. Up from the right of the square you'll find the Apollon Theatre , a copy of Milan's La Scala, which has recently undergone a major renovation and occasionally hosts performances. Up from it is the handsome Orthodox church of Ayious Nikolaos , and beyond it to the right is Vaporia , where the island's wealthiest shipowners, merchants and bankers built their mansions. On the taller hill to the left is the intricate medieval quarter of Ano Syros , with a clutch of Catholic churches below the cathedral of St George. There are fine views of the town below, and, close by, the Cappuchin monastery of St Jean , founded in 1535 to do duty as a poorhouse. It takes about 45 minutes of tough walking up Omirou to reach this quarter, passing the Orthodox and Catholic cemeteries on the way - the former full of grand shipowners' mausoleums, the latter with more modest monuments and French and Italian inscriptions (you can halve the walking time by taking a shortcut onto the stair-street named Andhrea Karga, part of the way along). Once up here it's worth visiting the local art and church exhibitions at the Vamvakeris museum (daily 10.30am-1pm & 7-10pm; ?1.50), and the Byzantine museum attached to the monastery.
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