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Don't be put off by first impressions of Syros . From the ferry it looks grimly industrial, but away from the Neorion shipyard things improve quickly. Very much a working island with only a relatively recent history of tourism, it is among the most Greek of the Cyclades. You probably won't find, as Herman Melville did when he visited in 1856, shops full of "fez-caps, swords, tobacco, shawls, pistols, and orient finery", but you're still likely to appreciate Syros as a refreshing change from its more touristic neighbours. Of course, outsiders do come to the island; in fact there's a thriving permanent foreign community, and the beaches are hardly undeveloped, but everywhere there's the underlying assumption that you're a guest of an inherently private people.
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