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Such tourist facilities as exist are concentrated in the little harbour of ALOPRONIA , with its long sandy beach and extended breakwater and jetty. More and more formal accommodation is being built here, but it's still possible to camp or just sleep out under the tamarisks behind the beach. For rooms, try Flora (tel 02860/51 214; up to ?24), near the main road leading to Hora, Loukas (tel 02860/51 076; up to ?24-58), which has rooms and studios around town to suit most budgets, or the recommended The Rock (tel 02860/51 135; ?24-33), above the Vrachos Pizzaria/Rock Cafe ; alternatively, the comfortable and traditional Hotel Kamares (tel 02860/51 234; ?24-33) has a nicer setting than the conspicuous Porto Sikinos luxury complex (tel 02860/51 247; ?43-58). To Meltemi taverna on the quay is the locals' hangout, while the fancier Ostria is affiliated with the Hotel Kamares and the Loukas provides standard fare. The Rock Cafe above the quay plays a more varied music selection than its name would suggest and attracts a good mix of people, while Vengera music bar on the opposite side of the bay is a smoother joint. The double village of KASTRO-HORA is served by the single island bus, which shuttles regularly from early morning till quite late in the evening between the harbour and here, though the route should soon be extended to Episkopi with the completion of the new road. On the ride up, the scenery turns out to be less desolate than initial impressions suggest. Draped across a ridge overlooking the sea, Kastro-Hora makes for a charming day-trip, and the lovely oil-press museum (July to mid-Sept 6.30-8.30pm; free), run privately by a Greek-American, is highly recommended. A partly ruined monastery, Zoodhohou Piyis ("Life-giving Spring", a frequent name in the Cyclades), crowns the rock above. The architectural highlight of the place, though, is the central quadrangle of Kastro , a series of ornate eighteenth-century houses arrayed defensively around a chapel square, their backs to the exterior of the village. The quality of rooms has improved, and both Markos Zagoreos (tel 02860/51 263; up to ?24) and Haroula (tel 02860/51 212; up to ?24) have competitive prices - the former has great views. A good selection of food is available, along with fine local wine, at both Klimataria and To Steki tou Garbi next door. The kafenia up here are very traditional affairs and you might feel more welcome at the cafe-bars Kastro or Platia .
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