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KAMARES , the island's port, is tucked away at the foot of high, bare cliffs in the west, which enclose a beach. A busy, fairly downmarket resort with concrete blocks of villas edging up to the base of the cliffs, Kamares' seafront road is crammed with bars, travel agencies, ice-cream shops and fast-food places. You can store luggage at the Aegean Thesaurus travel agency while hunting for a room (proprietors tend not to meet boats); they also change money and can book accommodation throughout the island. Accommodation is relatively expensive, though bargaining can be productive outside peak season. Try the reasonable Hotel Stavros (tel 02840/31 641; ?24-33) or, further along above the town beach, the good but pricier Boulis Hotel (tel 02840/32 122; ?34-58), which has very friendly management. Above the Boulis , the welcoming Makis campsite (tel & fax 02840/32 366) has good facilities and good-value air-conditioned rooms (?34-42). Continue past the Makis and turn right up from the end of the beach to find newer, quieter accommodation in Ayia Marina, including the Mosha Pension (tel 02840/31 719; ?24-33), and the newly remodelled Delphini Hotel (tel 02840/33 740; ?73 and upwards), which has its own pool. The best restaurants are the Meropi , ideal for a pre-ferry lunch, the Boulis (under the same management as the Boulis Hotel ) with its collection of huge retsina barrels, the Kamares ouzeri and Kira Margena at the far end of the beach in Ayia Marina. Kamares also has a little nightlife : the Collage Bar , good for a sunset cocktail, and Folie-Folie . The best place to hire a moped is at Dionysos.
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