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Sifnos is a more immediately appealing island than its northern neighbours since it's prettier, more cultivated and has some fine architecture. This means that it's also much more popular, and extremely crowded in July or August, when rooms are very difficult to find. Take any offered as you land, come armed with a reservation or, best of all, time your visit for spring or autumn, though bear in mind that most of the bars and the souvenir shops aren't likely to be open. In keeping with the island's somewhat upmarket clientele, freelance camping is forbidden, while nudism is tolerated only in isolated coves. The locals tend to be more cosmopolitan and aloof than on neighbouring islands, but in the more out-of-the-way places they're usually hospitable. The island's modest size - no bigger than Kythnos or Serifos - makes it eminently explorable. The bus service is excellent, most of the roads quite decent, and there's a network of paths that are fairly easy to follow. Sifnos has a strong tradition of pottery and was long esteemed for its distinctive cuisine, although most tourist-oriented cooking is only a little above average. However, the island's shops and greengrocers are well stocked in season. Ferry connections have improved in recent years, keeping pace with the island's increasing popularity. The Express Milos and Express Dionysos ply a regular shuttle via Kythnos and Serifos, then on to Milos and Kimolos before heading east to Folegandros, Sikinos, Ios and Thira, from where the course is reversed back to Pireas. Links with the central Cyclades are provided by the infrequent visits of the Georgios Express to Paros or Syros and backed up by an almost daily hydrofoil service which also goes to Naxos and Mykonos several times a week.
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