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A little way south of Panayia, you reach a junction in the road. Turn left to return to Hora, or continue straight towards Megalo Horio - the site of ancient Serifos, but with little else to recommend it. Megalo Livadhi , further on, is a remote and quiet beach resort 8km west of Hora, with two lovely tavernas whose tables are practically on the beach. Iy Mardhitsa taverna has some simple rooms behind the beach (tel 02810/51 003; up to ?24). Iron and copper ore were once exported from here, but cheaper African deposits sent the mines into decline and today most of the idle machinery rusts away, though some gravel-crushing still goes on. At the north end of the beach there's a monument to four workers killed during a protest against unfair conditions in 1916. An alternate turning just below Megalo Horio leads to the small mining and fishing port of Koutalas , a pretty sweep of bay with a church-tipped rock, and a long if narrow beach. It has become rather a ghost settlement and the workers' restaurants have all closed down, but there is one snack bar/taverna, catering mainly for yachting crews. The winding track above the village leads to Livadhi, and apart from the pleasant Ganema beach, which has a taverna of the same name, there are no places to rest or buy refreshments on the long journey back.
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