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Most visitors stay in the port, LIVADHI , set in a wide greenery-fringed bay and handy for most of the island's beaches. The usually calm bay here is a magnet for island-hopping yachts, whose crews chug to and fro in dinghies all day and night. It's not the most attractive place on Serifos and mosquitoes abound, but Livadhi and the neighbouring cove of Livadhakia are certainly the easiest places to find rooms and any amenities you might need, all of which are very scarce elsewhere. Unfortunately, the long beach at Livadhi is nothing to write home about: the sand is hard-packed and muddy, and the water weedy and prone to intermittent jellyfish flotillas - only the far northeastern end is at all usable. Turn left up the main business street, or climb over the southerly headland from the cemetery, to reach the neighbouring, far superior Livadhakia . This golden-sand beach, shaded by tamarisk trees, offers snorkelling and other watersports, as well as an acceptable taverna. If you prefer more seclusion, five-minutes' stroll across the headland to the south brings you to the smaller Karavi beach, which is cleaner and almost totally naturist, but has no shade or facilities. A slightly longer 45-minute walk north of the port along a bumpy track leads to Psili Ammos , a sheltered, white-sand beach considered the best on the island. Accordingly it's popular, with two rival tavernas which tend to be full in high season. Naturists are pointed - via a ten-minute walk across the headland - towards the larger and often deserted Ayios Ioannis beach, but this is rather exposed with no facilities at all, and only the far south end is inviting. Both beaches are theoretically visited by kaikia from Livadhi, as are two nearby sea caves, but don't count on it. Additionally, and plainly visible from arriving ferries, two more sandy coves hide at the far southeastern flank of the island opposite an islet; they are accessible on foot only, by a variation of the track to Psili Ammos. The more northerly of the two, Ayios Sostis , has a well with fresh water and is the most commonly used beach for secluded camping.
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