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Quiet and atmospheric HORA , teetering precariously above the harbour, is one of the most spectacular villages of the Cyclades. The best sights are to be found on the town's borders: tiny churches cling to the cliff-edge, and there are breathtaking views across the valleys below. At odd intervals along its alleyways you'll find part of the old castle making up the wall of a house, or a marble statue leaning incongruously in one corner. A pleasant diversion is the hour-long walk down to Psili Ammos : start from beside Hora's cemetery and aim for the lower of two visible pigeon towers, and then keep close to the phone wires, which will guide you towards the continuation of the double-walled path descending to a bend in the road just above the beach. Among two or three tavernas , the nicest place is Zorbas , near the church on the upper square, serving local dishes such as wild fennel fritters; Stavros , just east of the bus-stop platia, is friendly and dependable and can arrange rooms too (tel 02810/51 303; up to 24). The island's post office is found in the lowest quarter, and a few more expensive rooms for rent lie about 200m north of town, on the street above the track to the cemetery.
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