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Don't let the crowds put you off exploring MYKONOS TOWN , the archetypal postcard image of the Cyclades. Its sugar-cube buildings are stacked around a cluster of seafront fishermen's dwellings, with every nook and cranny scrubbed and shown off. Most people head out to the beaches during the day, so early morning or late afternoon are the best times to wander the maze of narrow streets. The labyrinthine design was intended to confuse the pirates who plagued Mykonos in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, and it still has the desired effect. You don't need any maps or hints to explore the convoluted streets and alleys of town - getting lost is half the fun. There are, however, a few places worth seeking out. Coming from the ferry quay you'll pass the Archeological Museum (Tues-Sat 9am-3.30pm, Sun 10am-3pm; ?1.50) on your way into town, which displays some good Delos pottery; the town also boasts a Maritime Museum displaying various nautical artefacts, including a lighthouse re-erected in the back garden (Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm; ?1). Alternatively, behind the two banks there's the library , with Hellenistic coins and late medieval seals, or, at the base of the Delos jetty, the Folklore Museum (Mon-Sat 4-8pm, Sun 5-8pm; free), housed in an eighteenth-century mansion and cramming in a larger-than-usual collection of bric-a-brac, including a vast four-poster bed. The museum shares the same promontory as the old Venetian kastro , the entrance to which is marked by Mykonos's oldest and best-known church, Paraportiani , which is a fascinating asymmetrical hodgepodge of four chapels amalgamated into one. The shore leads to the area known as "Little Venice" because of its high, arcaded Venetian houses built right up to the water's edge. Its real name is Alefkandhra , a trendy district packed with art galleries, chic bars and discos. Away from the seafront, behind Platia Alefkandhra, are Mykonos's two cathedrals : Roman Catholic and Greek Orthodox. Beyond, the famous windmills look over the area, a little shabby but ripe for photo opportunities. Instead of retracing your steps along the water's edge, follow Enoplon Dhinameon (left off Mitropoleos) to Tria Pigadhia fountain. The name means "Three Wells", and legend has it that should a maiden drink from all three she is bound to find a husband.
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