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From Panormos Bay, it's an easy walk to the only other settlement of any size on the island, ANO MERA , where you should be able to find a room . The village prides itself on striving to maintain a traditional way of life, although the result is rather pseudo and wishy-washy: the so-called traditional kafenio has long since ditched Greek coffee for cappuccino and traditional sweets for "ice-cream special". There are, however, several acceptable tavernas on the platia, of which Tou Apostoli to Koutouki is most popular with locals, and a large hotel - Hotel Ano Mera (tel 02890/71 276; ?34 and upwards). The red-roofed church near the square is the sixteenth-century monastery of Panayia Tourliani , where a collection of Cretan icons and the unusual eighteenth-century marble baptismal font are worth seeing. It's not far, either, to the late twelfth-century Paleokastro monastery (also known as Darga), just north of the village, in a magnificent green setting on an otherwise barren slope. To the northwest are more of the same dry and wind-buffeted landscapes, though they do provide some enjoyable, rocky walking with expansive views across to neighbouring islands - head to Ayios Stefanos for buses back to the harbour.
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