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Originally visited only as a stop on the way to ancient Delos, Mykonos has become easily the most popular (and the most expensive) of the Cyclades. Boosted by direct air links with Britain and domestic flights from Athens, it sees an incredible 800,000 tourists pass through in a good year, producing some spectacular overcrowding in high summer on Mykonos's 75 square kilometres. But if you don't mind the crowds, or - and this is a much more attractive proposition - you come out of season, the prosperous capital is still one of the most beautiful of all island towns, its immaculately whitewashed houses concealing hundreds of little churches, shrines and chapels. The sophisticated nightlife is pretty hectic, amply stimulated by Mykonos's former reputation as the gay resort of the Mediterranean - a title shared in recent years with places like Ibiza and Sitges in Spain; whatever, the locals take this comparatively exotic clientele in their stride. Unspoiled it isn't, but the island does offer excellent (if crowded) beaches, picturesque windmills and a rolling arid interior. An unheralded Mykonian quirk is the legality of scuba diving, a rarity in Greece, and dive centres have sprung up on virtually every beach.
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