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From either Adhamas or the Plaka area, good roads run roughly parallel to the north coast which, despite being windswept and largely uninhabited, is not devoid of interest. Mandhrakia , reached from Peran Triovassalos, is a boathouse settlement, and Sarakiniko , to the east, is a sculpted inlet with a sandy seabed and a summer beach cafe. About 8km from Adhamas, the little hamlet of Pahena , not shown on many maps, has a small beach and cluster of rooms - try Terry's (tel 02870/22 640; ?34-42). About a kilometre beyond this, the remains of three superimposed Neolithic settlements crown a small knoll at Fylakopi (ancient Phylakope); the site was important archeologically, but hasn't been maintained and is difficult to interpret. Just before the site is another one of Milos's coastal wonders: the deep-sea inlet of Papafranga , set in a ravine and accessible through a gap in the cliffs.
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