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In good weather boats dock on the west coast at MERIHAS , a rather functional ferry and fishing port with most of the island's facilities. This fact almost obliges you to stay here, and makes Merihas something of a relative tourist ghetto, but it's redeemed by proximity to the island's best beaches. The closest beach of any repute is Episkopi , a 500-metre stretch of averagely clean grey sand with a single taverna, thirty-minutes' walk north of the town; you can shorten this considerably by sticking to coast-hugging trails and tracks below the road. Far better are the adjacent beaches of Apokroussi , which has a canteen, and Kolona , the latter essentially a sandspit joining the islet of Ayios Loukas to Kythnos. These lie about an hour's walk northwest of Episkopi, and are easiest reached by boat-trip from the harbour. Camping is generally tolerated, even on Martinakia beach, the nearest to Merihas, which has an eponymous taverna. Owners of accommodation often meet the ferries in high season. There are numerous rooms to let, but they tend to be large and equipped for visiting families, so they can be on the expensive side - although with some opportunity for bargaining during the week. Out of season, owners are often not on the premises, but a contact phone number is usually posted up. Few places have sea views, one exception being the Kythnos Hotel (tel 02810/32 247; ?24-33), near the ferry dock, which has the added bonus of being open all year round. A little inland, behind the small bridge on the seafront, Panayiota (tel 02810/32 268; ?34-42) is a decent choice; and there are plenty of other rooms and studios of similar price and quality along the same road. The Milos Express agency may be able to help you find a room (tel 02810/32 104, fax 32 291). The best restaurants are To Kandouni , furthest from the ferry, a tasty grill with tables right by the water and specialities like sfougato ; and Kissos , a little inland from the middle of the harbour, where you pay for the food rather than the setting. There's also a bakery on the road to Dhryopida. Among purveyors of a modest nightlife, by far the friendliest and liveliest place is To Vyzantio . Remezzo behind the beach plays good popular music, while eclectic Greek folk can be heard at the modern New Corner , 100m along the road to Dhryopidha. The latest addition of any significance is Akrotiri Club , perched up on the headland above the south end of the harbour, playing that popular island blend of summer hits and Greek music. The bus service , principally to Loutra, Hora, Dhryopidha and Kanala, is reasonably reliable, in season at least; the only motorbike rental is through the main Milos Express agency and is noticeably more expensive than on many islands. The Cava Kythnos shop doubles as the official National Bank outlet (exchange all day, credit cards accepted for a ?3 fee), and is the agent for hydrofoil tickets and the boat to Kea.
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