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HORA lies 6km northeast of Merihas, set in the middle of the island. Tilting south off an east-west ridge, and laid out to an approximate grid plan, it's an awkward blend of Kea-style gabled roofs, Cycladic churches with dunce-cap cupolas, and concrete monsters. Hora supports a post office (open only until noon); the closest accommodation at present is at Loutra. You can eat at To Kentro taverna run by Maria Tzoyiou near the small square, or at To Steki grill; Paradisos , on the approach road from Merihas is another reasonable option. As well as a rather sophisticated kafenio on the square, there is a very pleasant bar, Apokalypsi , a little further up, with outdoor seating. The much-vaunted resort of LOUTRA (3km north of Hora and named after its thermal baths) is scruffy, its nineteenth-century spa long since replaced by a sterile modern construction. The best taverna , Katerini , is a little out on a limb in the neighbouring bay to the west. Otherwise there are a few seafront bars and tavernas offering basic services, such as showers, to yachting crews. There is no shortage of places to sleep: pensions such as Delfini (tel 02810/31 430; 24-33), the Meltemi (tel 02810/31 271; 24-33, furnished apartments 43-72) and Porto Klaras (tel 02810/31 276; 34-42) are acceptable choices. You can also stay in the state-run Xenia baths complex (tel 02810/31 217; 34-42), where a twenty-minute bath plus basic check-up - blood pressure, heart rate and weight - costs about 3. The small bay of Ayia Irini, just a kilometre east of Loutra, is a more pleasant place to swim and boasts the decent Trehandiri taverna on the hill above the bay.
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