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Ano Koufonissi is the most populous island of the group; there is a reasonable living to be made from fishing and, with some of the best beaches in the Cyclades, it is attracting increasing numbers of Greek and foreign holidaymakers. Small enough to walk round in a morning, the island can actually feel overcrowded in July and August. The old single-street village of HORA , on a low hill behind the harbour, is being engulfed by new room and hotel development, but still has a friendly, small-island atmosphere. A map by the jetty shows where to find all the island's rooms : To Limani (tel 02850/71 851 or 71 450; ?24-33) is a cafe with rooms near the harbour; the popular restaurant and pension Melissa (tel 02850/71 454; ?24-33) is another good choice. The most upmarket options include Hotel Aegeon (tel 02850/74 050 or 74 051; ?59-72), by the village beach, or Ostria Village (tel 02850/71 671; ?43-58), on the hillside to the east of the village. Akroyiali (tel 02850/71 685; ?34-42) is on the front just beyond the beach; Yeoryia Kouveou has beautifully situated rooms at Hondros Kavos (tel 02850/71 707; ?24-33), outside the village to the east; and the Petros Club (tel 02850/71 728; ?43-58) is in a quiet position inland, with excellent views. Koufonissi is noted for its fish tavernas ; To Nikitouri , up in Hora, has very personable Greek-American management, and the Karnayio ouzeri on the bay to the west of the harbour is cheaper than most and has a fine array of seafood. The nearby To Steki Tis Marias is a good breakfast place with a few rooms (?24-33), and has views over the narrow channel to Kato Koufonissi. The most popular nightspot is Soroccos , a lively cafe-bar on the front, while good alternatives include Ta Kalamia , with a quieter choice of music; Nikitas ; and Skholeio , a creperie and bar. To Palio Fanari , to the west of the village, is the club favoured by locals, playing a mix of dance and Greek music. The OTE office and ticket agency are on the main street, and money, unusually, of late, can be changed at the somewhat improvised "post office" (limited hours), north of the town hall. All the good beaches are in the southeast of the island, getting better as you go east along a dirt path that skirts the coastline along the edge of low cliffs. Finikas , a ten-minute walk from the village, is the first of four wide coves with gently shelving golden sand, where there are rooms and an acceptable taverna. Further east is Harakopou , which has a windswept campsite (tel 02850/71 683) with cane shade and rather poor facilities on the headland before the next beach, Thanos . Next is Platia Punda , where caves have been hollowed out of the cliffs. Further east, the path rounds a rocky headland to Pori , a much longer and wilder beach, backed by dunes and set in a deep bay. It can be reached more easily from the village by following a track heading inland through the low scrub-covered hills. KATO KOUFONISSI , the uninhabited island to the southwest, has a seasonal taverna and some more secluded beaches; a kaiki shuttles people across until late in the evening. A festival is held here on August 15, at the church of the Panayia. The island of Keros is harder to reach, but if there is a willing group of people keen to visit the ancient site, a boat and boatmen can be hired at around ?45 for the day.
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