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In an attempt to accommodate increasing visitor numbers, Iraklia (pronounced Iraklia by locals), the westernmost of the minor Cyclades, is losing its charm as the number of purpose-built rooms increases. Ferries and hydrofoils call at AYIOS YEORYIOS , a small but sprawling settlement behind a sandy tamarisk-backed beach. Irini Koveou (tel 02850/71 488; ?24-33) has a cafe-restaurant and rooms opposite the harbour, and more rooms and places to eat can be found along the old road to Livadhi beach. Anna's Place (tel 02850/71 145; ?24-33) has rooms with shared cooking facilities, and Mestrali (tel 02850/71 807; ?24-33) has newer rooms as well as its own cafe-cum-taverna. Theofanis Gavalas (tel 02850/71 565; ?24-33), Dhimitrios Stefanidhis (tel 02850/71 484; ?24-33), Alexandra Tournaki (tel 02850/71 482; ?24-33) and Angelos Koveos (tel 02850/71 486; ?24-33) all have rooms nearby. O Pefkos is a pleasant taverna , with tables shaded by a large pine tree, while the cafe/shop Melissa acts as the main ticket agency for ferries. The recommended Perigiali taverna also has a small shop selling maps showing the mule path to a fine cave of Ayios Ioannis on the west side of the island. Livadhi , the best beach on the island, is a fifteen-minute walk southeast of town. There is shade, but bring refreshments, as the taverna might not be open. The village of Livadhi, deserted since 1940, stands on the hillside above, its houses ruined and overgrown; among the remains are Hellenistic walls incorporated into a later building, and fortifications from the time of Marco Sanudo. Marietta Markoyianni (tel 02850/71 252; ?24-33) has the only rooms on the beach; Zografos Rooms (tel 02850/71 946; ?43-58), above the road to Panayia, has fine views but is rather remote. PANAYIA or HORA , an unspoiled one-street village at the foot of Mount Papas, is another hour's walk inland along the paved road. It has a bakery/mini-market, two cafe/shops and the excellent and cheap O Kritikos ouzeri, but no rooms. A track to the east heads down to Pigadhi, a rocky beach with sea urchins, at the head of a narrow inlet. To the west a track from the near-deserted hamlet of Ayios Athanasios leads back to the port. The cave of Ayios Ioannis lies behind the mountain, at the head of a valley leading to Vourkaria bay. From Panayia, follow a signposted track west before zigzagging up to a saddle well to the north of the summit, with views over Skhinoussa, Koufonissi, Keros, Naxos and Amorgos; the path drops down to the south around the back of the mountain. A painted red arrow on the left indicates the turning to the cave, just over an hour's walk from Panayia. A church bell hangs from a cypress tree above the whitewashed entrance; inside there's a shrine, and the cave opens up into a large chamber with stalactites and stalagmites. It can be explored to a depth of 120m and is thought to be part of a much larger cave system, yet to be opened up; a festival is held here every year on August 18. The main trail continues beyond the cave to a small sandy beach at Alimia but this can be reached more easily with the beach boat from Ayios Yeoryios. In season the boat sails daily to either Skhinoussa, Alimia or the nearby pebble beach of Karvounolakos.
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