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Dhonoussa is a little out on a limb compared with the other minor Cylclades, and ferries and hydrofoils call less frequently. Island life centres on the pleasant port settlement of STAVROS , spread out behind the harbour and the village beach. Rooms , most without signs, tend to be booked up by Greek holiday-makers in August; try Mihalis Prasinos (tel 02850/51 578; ?43-58 based on four people sharing), with rooms along a lane behind the church; Dhimitris Prasinos (tel 02850/51 579; ?24-33), with rooms open year-round near the Iliovasilema restaurant; or Nikos Prasinos (tel 02850/51 551; ?43-58), who has good new studios above the rocks west of the harbour. Ta Kymata is the most popular of the four tavernas but Meltemi is also good, as is the friendly Aposperitis , right on the village beach. Nikitas Roussos (tel 02850/51 648) has a ticket agency above the harbour and can book rooms and change money - at high rates so you would be wise to bring enough with you. The hills around Stavros are low and barren and scarred by bulldozed tracks, but a little walking is repaid with dramatic scenery and a couple of fine beaches. Campers and nudists head for Kendros , a long and attractive stretch of sand fifteen minutes to the east, although shade is limited and there are no facilities. A road has been built on the hillside above, replacing the donkey track to the farming hamlets of Haravyi and Mersini; these have more hens and goats in the streets than people, and there are no cafes, shops or rooms. Mersini is an hour's walk from Stavros and has a welcome spring beneath a plane tree, the island's only running water. A nearby path leads down to Livadhi, an idyllic white sand beach with tamarisks for shade. In July and August there's a daily beach boat from the port. The road to KALOTARITISSA , on the northeast coast is now paved and no longer an especially attractive walk. You might want to head inland from Stavros toward Papas, the island's highest point, from where a valley drops down rapidly to the tiny village with a simple taverna and one room to rent (tel 02850/51 562; up to ?24). There are two small pebble beaches and a path that continues above the coast to Mersini. It takes four to five hours to walk round the island.
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