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In the patch of the Aegean between Naxos and Amorgos there is a chain of six small islands relatively neglected by tourists and by the majority of Greeks, few of whom have heard of them. Keros - ancient Karos - is an important archeological site but has no permanent population, and Kato Koufonissi is inhabited only by goatherds. However, the other four islands - Ano Koufonissi, Skhinoussa, Iraklia and Dhonoussa - are all inhabited, served by ferry and can be visited. Now increasingly discovered by Greeks and foreigners alike, the islets' popularity has hastened the development of better facilities, but they're still a welcome break from the mass tourism of the rest of the Cyclades, especially during high season. If you want real peace and quiet - what the Greeks call isykhia - get there soon. A few times weekly in summer a Pireas-based ferry - usually the Express Adonis, Express Hermes or the Georgios Express - calls at each of the islands, linking them with Naxos and Amorgos and (usually) Paros and Syros. A small local ferry, the Express Skopelitis , is a reliable daily fixture, leaving the little ferry quay in Naxos in mid-afternoon for relatively civilized arrival times at all the islets.
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