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Whether you arrive by ferry, or by kaiki from Pollonia, you'll dock at the hamlet of PSATHI , pretty much a non-event except for the excellent To Kyma taverna midway along the beach. The laissez-faire attitude towards tourism is demonstrated by the fact that there are no rooms here. Ferry tickets are sold only outside the expensive cafe at the end of the jetty, an hour or so before the anticipated arrival of the boat; the Tria Adhelfia and another open ferry come and go from Pollonia on Milos from the base of the jetty five times a day in summer. There is no bus on the island, but a licence has been obtained for a taxi, so now only a driver is required. The friendly locals will sometimes offer you a lift. Around the bay there are a few old windmills and the dazzlingly white HORA perched on the ridge above them. Unsung - and neglected, although there are plans to reconstruct it and build government rooms - is the magnificent, two-gated sixteenth-century kastro , the best preserved of such fortresses built against marauding pirates in the Cyclades; the perimeter houses are intact and inhabited but its heart is a jumble of ruins. Just outside the kastro to the north stands the conspicuously unwhitewashed, late-sixteenth-century church of Khryssostomos , the oldest and most beautiful on the island. It takes fifteen minutes to walk up to the surprisingly large town, passing the adequate Villa Maria (tel 02870/51 392; 24-33), about five minutes along the way and nearer to Psathi. Further accommodation is available in Hora itself, where Margaro Petraki (tel 02870/51 314; up to 24), has rooms tucked away in the rather unglamorous maze of backstreets, as does Nikos Ventouris (tel 02870/51 329; up to 24) above his kafenio nearby. Sofia Ventouris (tel 02870/51 219; 34-42) has a few new studios with sea views, close to the church. The aptly named Panorama , near the east gate of the kastro , is the most elaborate and consistently open taverna . Meltemi , to the west of the village, is a good, new taverna which also has some rooms (tel 02870/51 360; 24-33). There are a couple of basic psistaries , as well as 1860 , a surprisingly sophisticated cafe-bar . Self-catering is an easy proposition - and may be a necessity before June or after August - with a well-stocked supermarket, produce stalls and a butcher. Finally, there are a couple of boat agencies, and a post office in the west of the village. The small archeological museum (Tues & Fri 8am-2pm, Wed, Thurs, Sat, Sun 8am-1pm), currently on the road into Hora, is due to move to more spacious premises near the church; its collection comprises pottery from the Geometric to the Roman period.
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