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About 8km southwest of Ioulidha, reached via a mix of tracks and paths, or by mostly paved road, the crumbling Hellenistic watchtower of Ayia Marina sprouts dramatically from the grounds of a small nineteenth-century monastery. Beyond, the paved main road twists around the startling scenic head of the lovely agricultural valley at PISSES , emerging at a large and little-developed beach. There are two tavernas, plus a pleasant campsite , Camping Kea , which has good turfy ground and also runs the studios (tel 02880/31 302) further inland. Of the tavernas, the best is To Akroyiali , with a good range of dishes and excellent rose wine, as well as rooms to rent upstairs (tel 02880/31 301 or 31 327; ?24-33). Beyond Pisses, the asphalt - and the bus service - peters out along the 5km road south to KOUNDOUROS , a sheltered, convoluted bay popular with yachters; there's a taverna behind the largest of several sandy coves, none cleaner or bigger than the beach at Pisses. The luxury Kea Beach hotel (tel 02880/31 230; ?43-72) sits out on its own promontory with tennis courts, pool, and a hamlet of dummy windmills built as holiday homes. At the south end of the bay, St George Bungalows (tel 02880 31 277; ?34-42) has smart rooms at very reasonable prices, as well as its own taverna which is recommended. A further 2km south at Kambi , there's a nice little beach and a good taverna, To Kambi . Besides the very scant ruins of ancient Poiessa near Pisses, the only remains of any real significance from Kea's past are fragments of a temple of Apollo at ancient Karthaia , tucked away on the southeastern edge of the island above Poles Bay, with an excellent deserted twin beach that's easiest reached by boat. Otherwise, it's a good three-hour round-trip walk from the hamlet of Stavroudhaki, some way off the lower road linking Koundouros, Havouna and Kato Meria. Travelling by motorbike, the upper road, which plies more directly between Pisses and Kato Meria, is worth following as an alternative return along the island's summit to Ioulidha; it's paved between Ioulidha and Kato Meria, and the entire way affords fine views over the thousands of magnificent oaks which are Kea's most distinctive feature.
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