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The small northern ferry and hydrofoil port of KORISSIA has fallen victim to uneven expansion and has little beauty to lose; if you don't like its looks upon disembarking, try to get a bus to Pisses (16km), Otzias (6km) or Ioulidha (6km). Buses usually meet the boats; during July and August there's a regular fixed schedule around the island, but at other times public transport can be very elusive. There are a few taxis on Kea, and two motorbike rental outfits: Adonis (tel 02880/21 097), close to the Karthea hotel, and Moto Center (tel 02880/21 844), a little inland near the OTE , both of them being more expensive than on most islands. There's a list of rooms in the seafront tourist information office, and the kindly agents for the Flying Dolphin hydrofoils (To Stegadhi bookshop), sell maps and guides, and can phone around in search of accommodation . The best choices are the Nikitas pension (tel 02880/21 193; ?24-33), open all year and very friendly; Hotel Korissia (tel 02880/21 484; ?34-58), well inland along the stream bed; Hotel Tzia Mas (tel 02880/21 305; ?24-58), right behind the east end of the otherwise uninspiring port beach; and the somewhat noisy Karthea (tel 02880/21 204; ?43-58), which does, however, boast single rooms and year-round operation, a cameo appearance in recent Greek history: when the junta fell in July 1974, the colonels were initially imprisoned for some weeks in the then-new hotel, while the recently restored civilian government pondered what to do with them; Kea was then so remote and unvisited that the erstwhile tyrants were safely out of reach of a vengeful populace. For eating , Iy Akri and Angyrovoli near the Karthea hotel have standard fare, while near the jetty Apothiki seems more popular than its smarter neighbour, Lagoudera . There's good swimming at Yialiskari , a small, eucalyptus-fringed beach between Korissia and Vourkari; the Yialiskari rooms (tel 02880/21 197; ?24-33) enjoy a good view. VOURKARI , a couple of kilometres to the north, is more compact and arguably more attractive than Korissia, serving as the favourite hangout of the yachting set; there's no real beach or accommodation here. Three fairly expensive and indistinguishable tavernas serve up good seafood dishes, and there's a very good ouzeri - Strofi tou Mimi - located where the road cuts inland towards Otzias. The few bars include Vourkariani , popular with an older crowd, and the slightly more happening Kokko Cafe and Emage . Another 4km to the east, OTZIAS has a small beach that's a bit better than that at Korissia, though more exposed to prevailing winds; facilities are limited to a couple of tavernas and a fair number of apartments for rent. Kea's only functioning monastery, the eighteenth-century Panayia Kastriani , is an hour's walk along a dirt road from Otzias. Although more remarkable for its fine setting on a high bluff than for any intrinsic interest, the hostel at the monastery (tel 02880/21 348) is the cheapest accommodation deal on the island, albeit rather basic, isolated and not dependably open. From here you can take the pleasant walk on to the island capital, Ioulidha, in another two hours.
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