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KARAVOSTASSI , the rather unprepossessing port whose name simply means "ferry stop", serves as a last-resort base; it has several hotels but little atmosphere. Best value if you do decide to stay is Hotel Aeolos (tel 02860/41 205; ?24-33), while the Poseidon (tel 02860/41 272; ?43-58) throws in breakfast at its decent restaurant To Kati Allo , which means "Something Else" and the new Vrahos Hotel (tel 02860/41 304; ?43-58) has some nice rooms on the far side of the bay. Iy Kali Kardhia taverna above the harbour is recommended, and there are a couple of pleasant beach bars including the Smyrna Ouzeri , housed in a converted boathouse. There are many buses a day in summer to Hora, three continuing to Ano Meria; if you're feeling adventurous try Jimmy's motorbike rental (tel 02860/41 448), which is cheaper than its counterparts in Hora. The closest beach is the smallish, but attractive enough, sand-and-pebble Vardhia , signposted just north over the headland. Some twenty-minutes' walk south lies Loustria , a rather average beach with tamarisk trees and the island's official campsite , Livadi Camping (tel 02860 41 304), which is good and friendly, although the hot water supply can be erratic. Easily the most scenic beach on Folegandhros, a 300-metre stretch of pea-gravel with an offshore islet, is at Katergo , on the southeastern tip of the island. Most people visit on a boat excursion from Karavostassi or Angali, but you can also get there on foot from the hamlet of Livadhi, a short walk inland from Loustria. Be warned, though, that it's a rather arduous trek, with some nasty trail-less slithering in the final moments.
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