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Folegandhros's real character and appeal are to be found in the spectacular HORA , perched on a clifftop plateau some 45 minutes' walk from the dock; an hourly high-season bus service (6 daily spring/autumn) runs from morning until late at night. Locals and foreigners - hundreds of them in high season - mingle at the cafes and tavernas under the almond, flowering Judas and pepper trees of the two main platias, passing the time unmolested by traffic, which is banned from the village centre. Towards the cliff-edge, and entered through two arcades, the defensive core of the medieval kastro is marked by ranks of two-storey houses, whose repetitive, almost identical stairways and slightly recessed doors are very appealing. From the square where the bus stops, a zigzag path with views down to both coastlines climbs to the cragtop, wedding-cake church of Kimisis Theotokou , nocturnally illuminated to grand effect. Beyond and below it hides the Khryssospilia , a large cave with stalactites, accessible only to proficient climbers; the necessary steps and railings have crumbled away into the sea, although a minor, lower grotto can still be visited by kaiki from the port.
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