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Northwest of Hora a narrow, paved road threads its way towards ANO MERIA , the other village of the island; after 4km you pass its first houses, clustered around the three churches of Ayios Pandelimonas, Ayios Yeoryios and Ayios Andhreas. Four tavernas operate in high season only: Barba Kostas is at the beginning of the village, O Mimis is about halfway along, Iy Sinandisi is at the turning for Ayios Yeoryios beach, while Iliovasilema , at the far end of the sprawling village, completes the list. Several rooms are also available, including Stella's (tel 02860/41 329; up to 24) and Irini's (tel 02860/41 344; up to 24). Up to six times a day in high season a bus trundles out here to drop people off at the footpaths down to the various sheltered beaches on the southwest shore of the island. Busiest of these is Angali (aka Vathy), with four rather basic rooms outfits including Vangelis (tel 02860/41 105; up to 24) and Panagiotis (tel 02860/41 116; 24-33) and two equally simple summer-only tavernas, reached by a fifteen-minute walk along a dirt road from the bus stop. Nudists should take the paths which lead twenty minutes east or west to Fira or Ayios Nikolaos beaches respectively; the latter in particular, with its many tamarisks, coarse sand and view back over the island, is Katergo's only serious rival in the best-beach sweepstakes. At Ayios Nikolaos, a lone taverna operates up by the namesake chapel; Fira has no facilities at all. From the Iliovasilema taverna, a motorable track continues north to a point from where a 500-metre path takes you down to the pleasant little bay of Ambeli .
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