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The remains of ancient Delos , Pindar's "unmoved marvel of the wide world", though skeletal and swarming now with lizards and tourists, give some idea of the past grandeur of this sacred isle a few sea-miles west of Mykonos. The ancient town (Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm; ?4.40) lies on the west coast on flat, sometimes marshy ground which rises in the south to Mount Kynthos . From the summit - an easy walk - there's a magnificent view across the Cyclades: the name of the archipelago means "those [islands] around [Delos]". The first excursion boats to Delos leave Mykonos daily at 8.30am (?5.80 round trip), except Mondays when the site is closed. You have to return on the same boat, but in season each does the trip several times and you can choose what time you leave. The last return is usually about 3pm, and you'll need to arrive early if you want to make a thorough tour of the site. In season a daily kaiki makes return trips from the beaches (?9) with pick-up points at Platys Yialos and Ornos, but only allows you three hours on the island. It's a good idea to bring your own food and drink as the tourist pavilion's snack bar is a rip-off
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