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The tiny harbour hamlet of AYIOS NIKOLAOS has a single taverna, To Akroyiali , with a few rooms (tel 02860/61 218; up to 24), while Dave's Cafe , with straw umbrellas above the beach, is a colourful English-run drinking spot. Jeyzed Travel (tel 02860/61 253, fax 61 352) can provide information as well as issue ferry tickets, change money and book rooms. In August there are enough Greek visitors to fill all the rooms on the island, so it's a good idea to book ahead. Most places to stay are in Hora. In season a bus runs from the harbour every two hours or so, 9am to 11pm, to stops at both ends of the village. HORA itself, adorning a conical hill overhead, is a stiff, 25-minute climb up the obvious old mule path which shortcuts the modern road. Exposed and blustery when the meltemi is blowing, Hora can initially seem a rather forbidding ghost town. This impression is slowly dispelled as you discover the hospitable islanders taking their coffee in sheltered, south-facing terraces, or under the anti-earthquake barrel vaulting that features in domestic architecture here. The modern, purpose-built rooms run by Kalliopi Halari (tel 02860/61 271; up to 24) and Voula Loudharou (tel 02860/61 279; up to 24), and those run by Margarita Kollidha (tel 02860/61 292; 24-33) at the east edge of the village, are about the most comfortable - and boast stunning views south to the islets of Ftena, Pahia and Makria, and the distinctive monolith at the southeastern corner of Anafi. Evening diners seem to divide their custom between the simple, welcoming To Steki , with reasonable food and barrel wine served on its terrace, and the more upmarket Alexandhra's on the central walkway. Armenaki is a lively taverna/ouzeri which hosts regular bouzouki nights. Otherwise nightlife revolves around the two bars: Mylos , in a converted windmill in the village, and Mantres on the main road between the port and Hora. Several shops, a bakery and a post office round up the list of amenities.
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