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The glory of Anafi is a string of south-facing beaches starting under the cliffs at Ayios Nikolaos. Freelance campers head for KLISIDHI , a short walk to the east of the harbour, which has 200m of tan, gently shelving sand. Above the calamus-and-tamarisk oasis backing the beach there are two cafes and a taverna, including the Kafestiatorion tis Margaritas , with popular rooms (tel 02860/61 237; ?24-33). The Villa Apollon on the hillside above has the island's most upmarket accommodation (tel 02860/61 348; ?24-33). Klisidhi can be reached by road but it's quicker to take the clifftop path starting behind the power station at the harbour. East of here the beaches can only be reached by foot or boat. From a point on the paved road just east of Hora, the main path skirting the south flank of the island is signposted "Kastelli - Palea Hora - Roukouna - Monastiri". The primary branch of this trail roller-coasters in and out of several agricultural valleys that provide most of Anafi's produce and fresh water. Just under an hour along, beside a well, you veer down a side trail to Roukounas , easily the island's best beach, with some 500m of broad sand rising to tamarisk-stabilized dunes, which provide welcome shade. A single taverna, Tou Papa , operates up by the main trail in season; the suggestively craggy hill of Kastelli , an hour's scramble above the taverna, is the site both of ancient Anafi and a ruined Venetian castle. Beyond Roukounas, it's another half-hour on foot to the first of the exquisite half-dozen Katelimatsa coves, of all shapes and sizes, and 45 minutes to Monastiri beach - all without facilities, so come prepared. Nudism is banned on Monastiri, because of its proximity to the monasteries.
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