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The energetically inclined can walk the four to five hours from Hora to Eyiali, either continuing on the faint trail just beyond Hozoviotissas, or taking the scenic and sheltered valley track through Terlaki and Rikhti. The two routes, and the modern jeep road, more or less meet an hour out of Hora. Along most of the way, you're treated to amazing views of Nikouria islet , nearly joined to the main island, and in former times a leper colony. The only habitations en route are the summer hamlet of Asfodhilitis , with well water but little else for the traveller, and Potamos , a double village you encounter on the stroll down towards Eyiali bay. EYIALI (Ormos) is smaller than Katapola but more picturesque, so it's gaining in popularity. The road inland, behind the harbour, leads to a group of hotels of similar price and quality. Nikitas (tel 02850/73 237; ?24-33) is the most pleasant, in that it stands on its own in a field, commanding unobstructed sea views. Above is a row of hotels including Pension Christine (tel 02850/73 236; ?24-33), Akrogiali (tel 02850/73 249; ?34-42) and Hotel Pelagos (tel 02850/73 206; ?24-33). Above on the main road is Poseidon Studios (tel 02850/73 453; ?43-58), which have fully equipped kitchens. Along the beach is the Lakki (tel 02850/73 244; ?43-58) and behind this the pleasant Pension Askas (tel 02850/73 333; ?43-58) - both of which have their own shaded tavernas. Next to Pension Askas there is a very friendly official campsite , Amorgos Camping (tel 02850/73 500), usually less crowded than that in Katapola. Overlooking the bay on the road up to Tholaria is a luxury hotel with a swimming pool, the Egialis (tel 02850/73 393; ?43 and upwards). For eating out , try To Limani (aka Katerina's ) on the single inland lane, packed until midnight by virtue of its excellent food and barrel wine. Other good options are the Amorgialos kafenio right by the harbour, which serves up octopus, and Delear , a smart beach bar with live music some evenings and rather pricey drinks. A few seasonal music bars , such as Ble Cafe , attempt to compete with Katerina's . The Corte Club at the Egialis hotel is a typical holiday resort disco playing northern European dance music and Greek pop. For a more active adventure you can take advantage of the new diving centre, Dive Ventures (tel 02850/73 611), which organizes daily boat and shore dives. The main Eyiali beach is more than serviceable, getting less weedy and reefy as you stroll further north, the sand interrupted by the remains of a Roman building jutting into the sea. A trail here leads over various headlands to an array of clothing-optional bays: the first sandy, the second mixed sand and gravel, the last shingle. There are no facilities anywhere so bring along what you need. There is a bus service up to each of the two villages visible above and east of Eyiali, with eight departures daily up and down (a timetable is posted by the harbour bus stop), but it would be a shame to miss out on the beautiful loop walk linking them with the port. A path starting at the far end of the beach heads inland and crosses the road before climbing steeply to THOLARIA , named after vaulted Roman tombs found around Vigla, the site of ancient Eyiali. Vigla is on a hill opposite the village but there is little to see beyond the bases of statues and traces of city walls incorporated into later terracing. Another path winds down behind the hill to a tiny pebble beach at Mikri Vlihadha far below. There are a few taverna-cafes , including a handsome wooden-floored establishment near the church, and several places to stay, including some comfortable rooms (reserve through Pension Lakki in Eyiali), the large and upmarket Vigla (tel 02850/73 288; ?34-72) and the Thalassino Oneiro (tel 02850/73 345; ?24-33), which has a fine restaurant and an extremely friendly owner. LANGADHA is another hour's walk along a path starting below Tholaria; to the left of the trail is the chapel of Astratios with an altar supported by the capital of a Corinthian column. Past here there are views down to the inlet of Megali Vlihadha and, on a clear day, across to Ikaria in the north. The path descends through the village of Stroumbos, abandoned apart from a few houses restored as holiday homes, and into a small gorge before climbing the steps up to Langadha. The place is home to a sizeable colony of expatriates - reflected in the German-Greek cooking at the beautifully located Nikos ' taverna at the lower end of the village, which also runs the attached Pagali hotel (tel 02850/73 310; ?43-58). The Loza taverna, at the top of the village also owns a more straightforward pension with rooms (tel 02850/73 315; ?24-33). Beyond Langadha, another rocky path leads around the base of the island's highest peak, the 821-metre-high Krikellos , passing on the way the fascinating church of Theologos , with lower walls and ground plan dating to the fifth century. Somewhat easier to reach, by a slight detour off the main Tholaria-Langadha trail, are the church and festival grounds of Panayia Panohoriani - not so architecturally distinguished but a fine spot nonetheless.
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