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Most people heading west from Iraklion speed straight out on the E75 coastal highway , nonstop to Rethymnon. If you're in a hurry this is not such a bad plan; the road is fast and spectacular, hacked into the sides of mountains which for the most part drop straight to the sea, though there are no more than a couple of places where you might consider stopping. By contrast, the old roads inland are agonizingly slow, but they do pass through a whole string of attractive villages beneath the heights of the Psiloritis range. From here you can set out to explore the mountains and even walk across them to emerge in villages with views of the south coast.
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