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The best way to approach IRAKLION is by sea: that way you see the city as it should be seen, with Mount Iouktas rising behind and the Psiloritis range to the west. As you get closer, it's the city walls that first stand out, still dominating and fully encircling the oldest part of town; finally you sail in past the great Venetian fort defending the harbour entrance. Unfortunately, big ships no longer dock in the old port but at great modern concrete wharves alongside, which neatly sums up Iraklion itself. Many of the old parts have been restored from the bottom up, but they're of no relevance to the bustle and noise that characterizes much of the city today. In recent times, however, Iraklion's administrators have been giving belated attention to dealing with some of the image problems, and large tracts of the centre - particularly the focal Platia Eleftherias - have been landscaped and refurbished with the aim of presenting a less daunting prospect to the visitor.
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