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The substantial attractions of Crete's westernmost quarter are all the more enhanced by its relative lack of visitors, and despite the now-rapid spread of tourist development, the west is likely to remain one of the emptier parts of the island. This is partly because there are no big sandy beaches to accommodate resort hotels, and partly because it's so far from the great archeological sites. But for mountains and empty (if often pebbly) beaches, it's unrivalled. Hania itself is an excellent reason to come here and, along with Rethymnon, is one of the two Cretan cities which could be described as enjoyable in itself. The immediately adjacent coast is relatively developed and not overly exciting; if you want beaches head for the south coast. Paleohora is the only place which could really be described as a resort, and even this is on a thoroughly human scale; others are emptier still. Ayia Roumeli and Loutro can be reached only on foot or by boat; Hora Sfakion sees hordes passing through but few who stay; Frangokastello , nearby, has a beautiful castle and the first stirrings of development. Behind these lie the Lefka Ori (White Mountains) and, above all, the famed walk through the Gorge of Samaria .
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