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From Sitia, the route south is a cross-country roller-coaster ride until it hits the south coast at MAKRYIALOS . This little fishing village has one of the best beaches at this end of Crete, with fine sand which shelves so gently you feel you could walk the 320km to Africa. Unfortunately, since the early 1990s it has been heavily developed, so while still a very pleasant place to stop for a swim or a bite (the outstanding Porfira taverna on the sea is recommended), it's not somewhere you're likely to find cheap rooms . Outside of peak season you could try Irini Rooms (tel 08430/51 422; ?24-33), on the main road through the village near where the bus drops you. From here to Ierapetra there's little reason to stop; the few beaches are rocky and the coastal plain submerged under ranks of polythene-covered greenhouses. Beside the road leading into Ierapetra are long but exposed stretches of sand, including the appropriately named "Long Beach", where you'll find a campsite , Camping Koutsounari (tel 08420/61 213), which offers plenty of shade and has a taverna and minimarket.
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