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The main road south and then east from Ayios Nikolaos is not a wildly exciting one, essentially a drive through barren hills sprinkled with villas and skirting above the occasional sandy cove. Five kilometres beyond a cluster of development at Kalo Horio, a track is indicated on the right for the Moni Faneromeni . The track (though partly asphalted) is a rough one and climbs dizzily skywards for 6km, giving spectacular views over the Gulf of Mirabello along the way. The view from the monastery over the gulf must be among the finest in Crete. To get into the rather bleak-looking monastery buildings, knock loudly. You will be shown up to the chapel, built into a cave sanctuary, and the frescoes - although late - are quite brilliant.
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