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AYIOS NIKOLAOS ("Ag Nik" to the majority of its British visitors) is set around a supposedly bottomless salt lake , now connected to the sea to form an inner harbour. It is supremely picturesque and has some style and charm, which it exploits to the full. There are no sights as such but the excellent archeological museum (Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm; ?1.45) and an interesting folk museum (daily except Sat 10am-1.30pm & 7-9.30pm; ?0.90) are both worth seeking out. The lake and port are surrounded by restaurants and bars, which charge above the odds, and whilst the resort is still very popular, some tourists are distinctly surprised to find themselves in a place with no decent beach at all. There are swimming opportunities further north however, where the pleasant low-key resort of Elounda is the gateway to the mysterious islet of Spinalonga , and some great backcountry to the north - perfect to explore on a scooter. Inland from Ayios Nikolaos, Kritsa with its famous frescoed church and textile sellers is a tour-bus haven, but just a couple of kilometres away, the imposing ruins of ancient Lato are usually deserted.
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