The Ferries
If you're staying in Athens prior to heading out to the islands, it's worth going to the tourist office at Amerikis 2 to pick up a schedule of departures from Pireas. These can't be relied upon implicitly, but they do give a reasonable indication of what boats are leaving when and for where; note that the Argo-Saronic sailings and ships based on Syros or Paros are omitted. The majority of the boats - for the Argo-Saronic, Ikaria or Samos, and the popular Cyclades - leave between 8 and 9am. There is then another burst of activity between noon and 3pm towards the Cyclades and Dodecanese, and a final battery of sailings from 4 to 10pm (sometimes later), bound for a wide variety of ports, but especially Crete, the northeast Aegean and the western Cyclades. The frequency of sailings is such that, in high season at least, you need never spend the night in Athens or Pireas. There's no need to buy tickets for conventional ferries before you get here, unless you want a cabin berth or are taking a car on board (in which case, consult agents in Athens or Pireas); Flying Dolphin reservations are a good idea during July and August. In general, the best plan is to get to Pireas early, say at 7am, and check with the various shipping agents around the metro station and along the quayside Platia Karaiskaki. Keep in mind that many of these act only for particular lines, so for a full picture of the various boats sailing you will need to ask at three or four outlets. This can also be done at the agencies in Syndagma square a day or two in advance. Prices for all domestic boat journeys are standard, but the quality of the craft and circuitousness of routes vary greatly. If you are heading for Thira (Santorini) or Rhodes, for example, try to get a boat that stops at only three or four islands en route; for Crete settle for direct ferries only. Boats for different destinations leave from a variety of points along the main harbour, though it's wise to leave time for wayward ships and look for the signs (indicating name of boat and a clockface with departure time) hung in front of the relevant boats on the waterside railings or on the stern of the boats themselves. The ticket agent should know the whereabouts of the boat on the particular day
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