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Spetses was the island where the author John Fowles once lived and which he used, thinly disguised as Phraxos, as the setting for The Magus . It is today very popular with well-to-do Athenians and with foreigners, and seems to have risen above the bad 1980s reputation earned by an unhealthy proportion of cheap package tours and lager louts. The architecture of Spetses Town is distinct and distinguished, though less photogenic than that of Idhra. Lacking any dramatic topography, and despite a bout of forest-fire devastation in 1990, hints of the landscape described by Fowles are still to be seen: "away from its inhabited corner [it is] truly haunted ? its pine forests uncanny". Remarkably, at Ayii Anaryiri, Spetses' best beach, development has been restrained to a scattering of holiday villas.
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