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Egina was a major power in Classical times, rivalling Athens. It carried trade to the limits of the known world, maintained a sophisticated silver coinage system (the first in Greece) and had prominent athletes and craftsmen. During the fifth century BC, however, the islanders made the political mistake of siding with their fellow Dorians, the Spartans. Athens seized on this as an excuse to act on a long-standing jealousy; her fleets defeated those of the islanders in two separate sea battles and, after the second, the population was expelled and replaced by more tractable colonists. Subsequent history was less distinguished, with the pattern of occupation familiar to central Greece - by Romans, Franks, Venetians, Catalans and Turks - before the War of Independence brought a brief period as seat of government for the fledgling Greek nation. For a time it was a prison island and only comparatively recently has it shaken off the consequent unfavourable reputation. The grim Egina prison still stands behind the stadium, but is currently used as a stray-dog shelter. These days, the island is most famous for its pistachio orchards , whose thirsty trees lower the water table several feet annually - hence the notices warning you of the perennial water crisis. Athenians regard Egina as a beach annexe for their city, being the closest place to the capital most of them would swim at, though for tourists it has a monument as fine as any in the Aegean in its beautiful fifth-century BC Temple of Afaia . This is located on the east coast, close to the port of Ayia Marina , and if it is your primary goal, you'd do best to take one of the ferries or hydrofoils which run directly there in season. Hydrofoils are more frequent than ferries, run from the same quay in Pireas as the conventional boats, and cost hardly any more. If you plan to stay, then make sure your boat docks at Egina Town , the island capital. Ferries and hydrofoils also stop at Souvala , a Greek weekend retreat between the two ports devoid of interest to outsiders.
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