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Between Vienne and Valence are some of the oldest, most celebrated vineyards in France: the renowned Cote Rotie, Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage appellations . If you've got any spare luggage space, it's well worth stopping to pick up a bottle from the local co-op; even their vin ordinaire is superlative and unbelievably cheap, considering its quality. Just south of Ampuis on the west bank, 8km south of Vienne, is the tiny area producing one of the most exquisite French white wines - Condrieu - and close by one of the most exclusive - Chateau-Grillet - an appellation covering just this single chateau (shop open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; tel 04.74.59.51.56). Between St-Vallier and Tain l'Hermitage , the Rhone becomes quite scenic, and after Tain you can see the Alps. In spring you're more likely to be conscious of orchards everywhere rather than vines. Cherries, pears, apples, peaches and apricots, as well as bilberries and strawberries, are cultivated in abundance.
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