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Between ST-MAXIMIN-DE-LA-STE-BAUME , 35km east of Aix and famous for its supposed possession of the relics of Mary Magdalene, and DRAGUIGNAN , an eminently avoidable military town, a network of small roads links a dozen villages, all of which are ideal for Provencal-style loafing. The roads wind through farmland, vineyards and woods, alongside streams and lakes. East of the Lac de Carces , between Cabasse and Carces, off the D19, lies the last of the three great Cistercian monasteries of Provence. Even more so than Silvacane and Senanque, the Abbaye du Thoronet (daily 10am-noon & 2-7pm; 35F/?5.34) has been unscathed by the vicissitudes of time, and during the Revolution was kept intact as a remarkable monument of history and art; today it is occasionally used for concerts. It was first restored in the 1850s; a more recent campaign has brought it to clear-cut perfection. As with the other two abbeys, its interior spaces, delineated by walls of pale rose-coloured stone, are inspiring. LORGUES , further east, has a serious gourmet stop in the restaurant Chez Bruno on route de Vidauban (tel 04.94.85.93.93; closed Mon & Sun evening out of season; menu at 300F/?45.75, a la carte around 400F/?61), where the truffle reigns supreme, appearing in myriad forms, even in desserts. Heading 13km northwest, ENTRECASTEAUX has an ancient stone laundry by the river that's still used, and a very beautiful chateau (closed to the public). COTIGNAC , 9km west of Entrecasteaux, is the Haut-Var village par excellence , with a shaded main square for petanque and passages and stairways bursting with begonias, jasmine and geraniums leading through a cluster of medieval houses. More gardens sprawl at the foot of the bubbly rock cliff that forms the back wall of the village. You can stay in the village at the recently renovated Lou Calen at the bottom of cours Gambetta (tel 04.94.79.60.40, fax 04.94.04.76.64: 220-300F/?34-46). North of Cotignac, SILLANS-LA-CASCADE has a beautiful walk, signposted off the main road, to an immense waterfall and aquamarine pool (about 20min). SALERNES , 6km east of Sillans, makes tiles and pottery and has the good, old-fashioned Grand Hotel Allegre , on route de Sillans (tel 04.94.70.60.30, fax 04.94.70.78.84; 220-300F/?34-46; closed mid-Nov to mid-April). VILLECROZE and TOURTOUR to the northeast are both suitably picturesque. The Auberge des Lavandes , on place du General-de-Gaulle in Villecroze (tel 04.94.70.76.00, fax 04.94.70.57.66; 300-400F/?46-61; closed Jan & Feb), is one of the best-value hotels in the region, while in Tourtour, on route de Flayosc, you can shelter in total luxury at La Bastide de Tourtour (tel 04.94.70.57.30, fax 04.94.70.54.90; over 800F/?122). A second option in Tourtour, which won't break the bank, is La Petite Auberge (tel 04.94.70.57.16, fax 04.94.70.54.52; 400-500F/?61-76). Between the two villages is a highly reputed restaurant , Les Chenes Verts (tel 04.94.70.55.06; closed Tues evening & Wed), with menus from 250F/?38.13.
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