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It is hard to believe that the peaceful fertile valley of the River Charente was once a busy industrial waterway, bringing armaments from Angouleme to the naval shipyards at Rochefort. Today peaceful, low, ochre-coloured farms crown the valley slopes, with green swathes of vineyard sweeping up to the walls, and the graceful turrets of minor chateaux - properties of wealthy cognac-producers - poke up from out of the woods. The towns and villages may look old-fashioned, but the prosperous shops and classy new villas are proof that where the grape grows, money and modernity are not far behind. The valley itself is easy to travel as the main road and train lines to Limoges run this way. North and south, Poitiers, Perigueux (for the Dordogne) and Bordeaux are also easily reached by train. Otherwise, for cross-country journeys, you are heavily reliant on your own transport.
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