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From Lahania it's possible to head 9km northwest along a narrow paved road to the picturesque hilltop village of MESANAGROS . This already existed in some form by the fifth century AD, if foundations of a ruined basilica at the village outskirts are anything to go by. A smaller thirteenth-century chapel squats amidst mosaic-floor patches of the larger, earlier church, with a hokhlaki floor and stone barrel arches (key from the nearby kafenio). The onward road to Skiadhi monastery, 6km distant, is shown incorrectly on most maps. Take the Katavia-bound road initially, then bear right onto an unsigned dirt track after about 2km; the last 4km are quite badly surfaced. Known formally as Panayia Skiadheni, Skiadhi monastery - despite its undistinguished modern buildings - was founded in the thirteenth century to house a miraculous icon of the Virgin; in the fifteenth century a heretic stabbed the painting, and blood flowed from the wound in the Mother of God's cheek. The offending hand was, needless to say, instantly paralyzed; the fissure, and intriguing brown stains around it, are still visible. The immediate surroundings of the monastery are rather dreary since a fire in 1992, but the views west are stunning. Tiny Khtenia islet is said to be a petrified pirate ship, rendered into stone by the Virgin in answer to prayers from desperate locals. Except on September 7-8, the festival of the icon, you can stay the night by arrangement with the caretaker. West of Katavia, the completely paved island loop road emerges onto the deserted, sandy southwest coast; Skiadhi can also be reached from this side as well, by another dirt road. Only strong swimmers should venture far offshore here, as it's exposed and tricky currents are the rule. The nearest village is nondescript, agricultural APOLAKkIA , 7km north of the Skiadhi turning and equipped with a bona fide hotel, tavernas , popular with bike-tourers, and shops. Northwest, the road leads to Monolithos, while the northeasterly bearing leads quickly and pleasantly back to Yennadhi via Vati. Due north, just below an irrigation reservoir, the tiny frescoed chapel of Ayios Yeoryios Vardhas (unlocked) is worth the short detour if you have your own transport.
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