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MALO-LES-BAINS is a more attractive place to stop off than Dunkerque: it's a surprisingly pleasant nineteenth-century seaside suburb on the east side of town (bus #3 & #9), from whose vast sandy beach the Allied troops embarked in 1940 . Digue des Allies is the dirtier end of an extensive beachfront promenade lined with cafes and restaurants; at the cleaner end, Digue des Mers, the beach can almost seem pleasant when the sun comes out - that is, if you avert your eyes from the industrial inferno to the west. However, the suburb actually reveals its fin-de-siecle charm away from the seafront, a few parallel blocks inland along avenue Faidherbe and its continuation avenue Kleber, with the pretty green place Turenne sandwiched in between; around here you'll find some excellent patisseries, boulangeries and charcuteries. Places to stay include the Hirondelle , 48 av Faidherbe (tel 03.28.63.17.65, fax 03.28.66.15.43, www.hotelhirondelle.com ; 220-300F/?34-46), a modern two-star in a great position; and the unassuming, less expensive Au Bon Coin , 49 av Kleber (tel 03.28.69.12.63, fax 03.28.69.64.03; 160-220F/?24-34), whose cosy bar is good for a drink. Both have well-regarded restaurants specializing in seafood: menus cost from 65F/?9.91 at the Hirondelle and from 90F/?13.72 at the more intimate and relaxed Au Bon Coin . Also on avenue Kleber are a few ethnic eateries, including a Vietnamese and a North African restaurant. Two popular beachfront brasseries , again specializing in seafood, are L'Iguane , 15 Digue des Allies, a down-to-earth establishment offering generous servings, and the stylish but more expensive Le Pavois , at 175 Digue de Mer.
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