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Even if gardens aren't really your thing, those at the chateau in the tiny, peaceful village of VILLANDRY (mid-Feb to mid-Nov daily: chateau 9am-6pm; gardens 9am-7.30pm; 45F/?6.86 chateau and gardens, 32F/?4.88 gardens only) are well worth a visit. Thirteen kilometres west of Tours along the Cher - a superb cycle trip - this recreated Renaissance garden is no ordinary formal pattern of opposing primary colours, but more like a tapestry that changes with the months and only fades in winter. Carrots, cabbages and aubergines are arranged into patterns beneath rose bowers; herbs and ornamental box hedges are part of the artwork, divided by vine-shaded paths. From a terrace above, you can see the confluence of the Cher and the Loire and chateaux on the northern bank. If you are visiting in late summer, you may be lucky enough to sample some garden-fresh produce.

Just past the chateau, 1km down the D121 towards Druye, there's an upmarket farmhouse restaurant , the Domaine de la Giraudiere (tel 02.47.50.08.60; closed mid-Nov to mid-March), which serves elaborate meals for 150-200F/?22.87-30.49, with cheaper menus for 63F/?9.60, featuring some excellent specialities based on goat's cheese. Alternatively, head back

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to SAVONNIERES , between Villandry and Tours, where the Ferme Auberge de la Tuilerie (tel 02.47.50.04.96; closed Tues & Nov-Easter) serves straightforward and very pleasant family meals, with a set menu from 110F/?16.77; cross the Cher, follow the D288, take the first left along the bank of the Cher and the farm is on your left. For accommodation in Savonnieres, try Le Faisan on route de Villandry (tel 02.47.50.00.17, fax 02.47.50.14.90; 160-220F/?24-34).


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8/29/2008 7:16:04 PM

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