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Unlike many small Loire towns, SAUMUR is not completely dominated by its chateau, nor by the military, though it's been the home of the French Cavalry Academy, and its successor, the Armoured Corps Academy, since 1763. Even the local sparkling wines are based elsewhere. Saumur itself is simply a peaceful and pretty place, spread along both banks of the Loire and over a small island in the middle of the river. The Hotel de Ville strives busily to attract festivals and conferences, and, when they're successful, finding a room can be a problem - even at the best of times, reservations are essential. The stretch of the Loire from Chinon to Angers, which passes through Saumur, is the loveliest part of the river, with the bizarre added draw of troglodyte dwellings carved out of cliffs as early as the twelfth century. The land on the south bank, under grapes and sunflowers, gradually rises away from the river, with long-inactive windmills still standing. Across the water cows graze in wooded pastures. For transport you can either take the train or one of three buses to get to Angers: #5 along the south bank, #11 crossing halfway, or #10 staying north of the river.
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