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On a high terrace on the river's north bank in the middle of LANGEAIS sits the Chateau de Langeais , looking sturdily severe (daily: April-Sept 9am-6.30pm, mid-July to Aug till 9pm; rest of year 9am-noon & 2-5/6.30pm; 35F/?5.34). It is purely fifteenth century, with furnishings to match, and significant to the French because it was built to stop any incursions up the Loire by the Bretons. This threat ended with Charles VIII and Duchess Anne of Brittany's marriage in 1491, which was celebrated in this castle. A diptych of the couple portrays them looking less than joyous at their union - Anne had little choice in giving up her independence. There are fine tapestries on show, but this is a visit only for real chateau aficionados. Langeais has a pleasant hotel , the Hosten , 2 rue Gambetta (tel 02.47.96.82.12, fax 02.47.96.56.72; 400-600F/?61-91), with a good but expensive restaurant . Five kilometres further west along the river bank, the little town of ST-MICHEL-SUR-LOIRE boasts the Musee Cadillac , located in the Chateau de Planchoury (April-Sept daily 10am-6pm; 40F/?6.10). The museum features the largest collection of Cadillacs outside the US, comprising fifty different models of the American dream machine collected from all over the world, all in remarkable condition. If you want to do some wine-buying, head for BOURGUEIL , just 13km west of St-Michel-sur-Loire. The Abbaye de Bourgueil has been making wine for nearly a thousand years and this is the best place to taste it. The Close de l'Abbaye (July & Aug Mon & Thurs-Sun 2-6pm; rest of year Sun only 2-6pm; tel 02.47.97.74.20; 25F/?3.81), just east of the town centre, is open for visits. Bourgueil's Foire aux Vins is held the first weekend in March; on the third Tuesday in July the town celebrates garlic; and on the third Tuesday in October, chestnuts are honoured. If you're heading north towards the Sarthe, an interesting stop is GIZEUX , 12km north of Bourgueil, or 15km on a back-road route from St-Michel, whose fourteenth- to sixteenth-century Chateau extends like a game of dominoes around its gardens (May-Sept Mon-Sat 10am-6.30pm, Sun 2-6pm; 35F/?5.34). It contains some fine Renaissance paintings and beautiful seventeenth-century frescoes, but its speciality is the humble donkey: the Musee Vivant de l'Ane (daily: April-Sept 9am-7pm; rest of year 10am-5pm; closed mid-Nov to Feb 4; 42F/?6.40) has gathered together pack saddles and all the means of controlling and cajoling these stubborn beasts of burden, and has sixty different breeds for you to sympathize with in the park.
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