|
Unlike the Loire, the gentle River Cher flows so slowly and passively between the exquisite arches of the Chateau de Chenonceau that you are almost always assured of a perfect reflection (daily: Jan & Dec 9am-4.30pm; early Feb & Nov 9am-5pm; late Feb & Oct 9am-6pm; rest of year 9am-7pm; www.chenonceaux.com ; 45F/?6.86). The building of the chateau was always controlled by women. Catherine Briconnet, whose husband bought the site, hired the first architects in 1515 and had them begin building on the foundations of an old mill that stood on the granite bed of the Cher. The chateau's most characteristic feature, the set of arches spanning the River Cher, was begun later in the century by Diane de Poitiers (mistress of Henri II) and completed by the indomitable Catherine de Medicis (wife of Henri II), after she had evicted Diane and forced her to hand over the chateau in return for much less elaborate Chaumont . Mary, Queen of Scots, child bride of Francois II, also spent time here until her husband's early death. Then, after a long period of disuse, one Mme Dupin brought eighteenth-century life to this gorgeous residence, along with her guests Voltaire, Montesquieu and Rousseau, whom she hired as tutor to her son. Restoration back to the sixteenth-century designs was completed by another woman, Mme Pelouze, in the late nineteenth century. It is now a profitable business, owned and run by the Menier chocolate family firm. Unlike some of its neighbours, Chenonceau is not visible from the road and you will have to pay for access to the grounds before even getting a peek at the residence. While the tree-lined path to the front door is dramatic, for a more intimate approach, head through the gardens laid out under Diane de Poitiers. After the pay-booths, cross the stream and follow signs to the maze. Walk along the stream through the woods, turn right to the Cher and, upriver, there's a magnificent view of the chateau. During summer the place is teeming with people, but visits are unguided - a luxurious relief, for there's an endless number of arresting tapestries, paintings, ceilings, floors and furniture on show. On the ground floor the Chambre de Francois I features a portrait of Diane de Poitiers by Primaticcio and a case containing copies of her signatures. Another exceptional picture is Zurbaran's half-dressed Archimedes , his clothes inside out and his face full of fear and (justified) suspicion that his theories would be misunderstood. The Salle des Gardes on the same floor, its painted rafters emblazoned with the device of Catherine de Medicis, is used to exhibit Flemish tapestries. The elegant gallery across the Cher, despite the plastic potted plants, is worth spending time in if only to evoke the parties - all naked nymphs and Italian fireworks - held there by Catherine. There's a son et lumiere show, "Les Dames de Chenonceau", tracing the history of the chateau from fortified mill to elegant residence, on June 3 and 4, then every evening from June 24 to Sept 3 (10.15pm; 40F/?6.10). In July and August you can take boats out onto the Cher, and there's a creche for small children.
Your Tip for Chateau de Chenonceau
Help other backpackers! Write your own guides and backpacking tips to Chateau de Chenonceau - they will appear instantly on this page - Please only write a tip/guide to Chateau de Chenonceau - visit the main Chateau de Chenonceau forum to ask a question!
Please do not post links to your site here (they won't work) - please use the Chateau de Chenonceau webguide section below! Thanks.
|
