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Situated approximately 30km northeast of Orleans towards Pithiviers, Chamerolles is a sixteenth-century chateau (April-Sept daily 10am-6pm; rest of year daily except Fri 10am-5pm; closed Jan; 30F/?4.57), whose pristine condition is devoid of the well-worn patina you may have come to expect. Its history is not particularly exciting, but the south wing now houses the Chateau-Promenade des Parfums (same hours and price), tracing the use of scents from the sixteenth century to the present day. With its "press-and-smell" buttons and reconstructed "toilets" it's great fun, not least for its revelations about European lavatorial habits over the last four hundred years. Behind the chateau is a reconstruction of a Renaissance garden - interesting more for its construction than its beauty. To get there using public transport, take a bus from Orleans to Chielleurs-aux-Boix, from where you'll have to walk the last 3km.
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