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Even without its Chateau (daily: April-Oct 9.30am-6pm, July & Aug till 7pm; Nov-March 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm; 32F/?4.88), the quiet village of AZAY-LE-RIDEAU would bask in its serene setting, complete with an old mill by the bridge and Carolingian statues embedded in the facade of the church of St Symphorien. The chateau exterior, however, on its little island in the Indre, is one of the loveliest in the Loire: pure turreted Renaissance, and required viewing. While the guided tours of the interior, furnished in period style, don't add much to the experience, the portrait gallery is worth seeing, since it has the whole sixteenth-century royal Loire crew - Francois I, Catherine de Medicis, the de Guises, and the rest - the highlight being a semi-nude painting of Gabrielle d'Estree, Henri IV's lover. The downside to Azay is that hotels don't come cheap, though Le Balzac , 4 & 6 rue A.-Richer (tel 02.47.45.42.08, fax 02.47.45.29.87; 220-300F/?34-46), and Le Grand Monarque , 3 place de la Republique (tel 02.47.45.40.08, fax 02.47.45.46.25; 300-500F/?46-76; half-board compulsory in season), are both comfortable possibilities. Upstream from the chateau is a large campsite , the Camping du Sabot (tel 02.47.45.42.72), near to the swimming pool and sports centre, signposted off the D84 to Sache. The restaurant of Le Grand Monarque , place Republique (tel 02.47.45.40.08), is very acceptable, with a midday menu for around 100F/?15.24, or try L'Automate Gourmand , 1 rue Parc (tel 02.47.45.39.07; closed Mon evening & Tues out of season), with weekday menus from 120F/?18.29. A rotating gourmet night-time market operates between Azay-le-Rideau, Bourgeuil and Langeais (June-Sept 5pm-midnight) and involves lots of drinking and delicious snacks - details are available from Azay's tourist office , on place de l'Europe (daily: April-Sept 9am-1pm & 3-7pm; rest of year 2-6pm; tel 02.47.45.44.40). You can rent bikes at the station or from Le Provost, 13 rue Carnot.
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