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Some 43km north of Auch and 21km west of Lectoure lies the town of CONDOM , whose road signs have predictably been interfered with by passing Brits: there's sadly no connection between the place and the device, though the mayor's considering opening a museum. Unremarkable in every other sphere, Condom is nonetheless good for a quick visit or an overnight stop, with an impressive cathedral and attractive old streets in the centre. Armagnac drinkers will be interested in the Musee de l'Armagnac , 2 rue Jules-Ferry (daily except Tues: Feb, March, Nov & Dec 2-5pm; April-Oct 10am-noon & 3-6pm; 13F/?1.98), and the Chais Ryst-Duperon , where the liquor is aged (July & Aug daily 9am-noon & 2-6.30pm; rest of year Mon-Sat 9am-noon & 2-6pm; free). For other places to taste and buy Armagnac, ask the tourist office in place Bossuet (July & Aug Mon-Sat 9am-12.30pm & 2-7pm, Sun 9am-12.30pm; rest of year Mon-Sat 9am-noon & 2-6pm; tel 05.62.28.00.80, fax 05.62.28.45.46).

The cheapest place to stay is the Relais de la Tenareze , at 20 av d'Aquitaine (tel 05.62.28.02.54, fax 05.62.28.46.96; 160-220F/?24-34). Two more appealing options, both with pools, are the Hotel Le Logis des Cordeliers , in rue de la Paix (tel 05.62.28.03.68, fax 05.62.68.29.03; 220-300F/?34-46; closed Jan), and, for a splurge, the Hotel des Trois Lys (tel 05.62.28.33.33, fax 05.62.28.41.85; 220-300F/?34-46; closed Feb; restaurant from 96F/?14.64). There's another GR65 gite d'etape at the Centre Salvandy (tel 05.62.28.23.80), and a municipal campsite (tel 05.62.28.17.32; closed Nov-March) near the river on the road to eauze. For a straightforward place to eat , try Pizzeria l'Origan , at 4 rue Cadeot in the town centre (closed Sun & Mon), or Cafe des Sports , on rue Charron by the cathedral, which does substantial salads and a plat du jour at 48F/?7.32. A more upmarket alternative is Le Moulin du Petit Gascon (tel 05.62.28.28.42; closed Dec-Feb, also Sun evening & Mon; menus from 95F/?14.49), out of town by the campsite, and attractively sited beside a canal lock.

Just 5km west of Condom, the tiny twelfth-century village of LARRESSINGLE is certainly very pretty, but is totally given over to the heritage industry as the "Carcassonne du Gers", with twee tearooms inside - and it only takes one coachload of visitors to swamp it.

More interesting is the very fine abbey of FLARAN , 8km along the road to Auch (daily: Feb-June & Sept-Dec 10am-12.30pm & 2-6pm; July & Aug 9.30am-7pm;

25F/?3.81). Built by the Cistercians in 1151 in pale white stone, it has the same scrubbed, ascetic appeal as Fontenay in Burgundy , with scarcely a hint of ornament - an effect totally destroyed by the decadent, incongruous plasterwork introduced into the monks' dormitory in the seventeenth century. Used as an Armagnac store until 1970, after undergoing many other vicissitudes in its long history, the monastery has only recovered its true identity in the last twenty years.

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