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Meals

There's no difference between restaurants (or auberges or relais as they sometimes call themselves) and brasseries in terms of quality or price range. The distinction is that brasseries, which resemble cafes, serve quicker meals at most hours of the day, while restaurants tend to stick to the traditional meal times of noon to 2pm, and 7pm to 9.30pm or 10.30pm. After 9pm or so, restaurants often serve only a la carte meals (single dishes chosen from the menu) - invariably more expensive than eating the set menu fixe . In touristy areas in high season, and for all the more upmarket places, it's wise to make reservations - easily done on the same day. In small towns it may be impossible to get anything other than a bar sandwich after 10pm or even earlier; in major cities, town-centre brasseries will serve until 11pm or midnight and one or two may stay open all night.

When hunting for places to eat, avoid places that are half empty at peak time, use your nose and regard long menus with suspicion. Don't forget that hotel restaurants are open to non-residents, and are often very good value. In many small towns and villages, you'll find the only restaurants are in hotels. Since restaurants change hands frequently and have their ups and downs, it's also worth asking people you meet (locals, not fellow tourists) for recommendations. This is the conversational equivalent of commenting on the weather in Britain and will usually elicit strong views and sound advice.

Prices , and what you get for them, are posted outside. Normally there's a choice between one or more menus fixes , where the number of courses has already been determined and the choice is limited, and choosing individually from the carte (menu). Menus fixes are normally the cheapest option. At the bottom end of the price range, they revolve around standard dishes such as steak and chips ( steak frites ), chicken and chips ( poulet frites ) and various concoctions involving innards. But further up the scale they can be much the best-value way of sampling regional specialities, sometimes running to five or more courses. If you're simply not that hungry, just go for the plat du jour .

Going a la carte offers greater choice and, in the better restaurants, unlimited access to the chef's specialities - though you'll pay for the privilege. A simple and perfectly legitimate tactic is to have just one course instead of the expected three or four. You can share dishes or go for several starters - a useful strategy for vegetarians. There's no minimum charge.

In the French sequence of courses , any salad (sometimes vegetables, too) comes separate from the main dish, and cheese precedes a dessert. You will be offered coffee, which is always extra, to finish off the meal.

Service compris or s.c. means the service charge is included. Service non compris, s.n.c. or servis en sus means that it isn't and you need to calculate an additional 15 percent. Wine ( vin ) or a drink ( boisson ) is occasionally included in the cost of a menu fixe . When ordering house wine, the cheapest option, ask for un quart (0.25 litre), un demi-litre (0.5 litre) or une carafe (1 litre). If you're worried about the cost ask for vin ordinaire or the vin de table . On this website the lowest price menu or the range of menus is given; where average a la carte prices are given it assumes you'll have three courses and half a bottle of wine.

The French are much better disposed towards children in restaurants than other nationalities, not simply by offering reduced-price children's menus but in creating an atmosphere - even in otherwise fairly snooty establishments - that positively welcomes kids; some even have in-house games and toys for them to occupy themselves with. It is regarded as self-evident that large family

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groups should be able to eat out together.

A rather murkier area is that of dogs in the dining room; it can be quite a shock in a provincial hotel to realize that the majority of your fellow diners are attempting to keep dogs concealed beneath their tables.

One final note is that you should always call the waiter or waitress Monsieur or Madame ( Mademoiselle if a young woman), never Garcon , no matter what you've been taught in school.


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12/3/2008 5:40:38 AM